New to the forum and need some help.
I have had this old BSA rifle kicking around for the last 15 or so years and only recently decided to give the gun a spruce up so I decided to strip it down to see what needed attention.
I think the rifle is a No 2 model standard based on seeing a 2 stamp on the top of the barrel and a serial No S40825, can anyone confirm?
I have some obvious stuff I need to address and they are as follows.
Missing rear sight, just the Dovetail where it should be.
Missing wooden butt plate.
Incorrect screw fitted to the cocking lever link bar.
Internally I the rifle has a piston of 156mm long (approx ) but no leather seal fitted but it it does have a thick metal disc attached the front end of the piston via the piston rod or so it would appear. The disc had been cross threaded and I struggled to remove it, this needs to be replaced. A couple of questions around this.
Is the piston the longer updated version?
When I fit a new seal is it just a matter of holding it in place with the thick Disc that screws onto the thread that protrudes from the front of the piston?
Does the piston rod unscrew from the piston?
The second thing I noticed is I don't have a guide tube that i have seen in photos of the trigger block , was it deleted on some models or should it be there?
If anyone can help with any of my questions I would be grateful but I will continue to read up as mush as I can from this site .
Ok, on closer inspection it looks like the guide tube has been snapped off at sometime in the past so I am unsure of how to rectify this, anyone have a suggestion.
On closer inspection I think the serial number I originally stated in my first post is wrong I now believe it to be S49825 which makes more sense and ties in with the dating information I found on this site. I am still struggling to find any detailed info around the piston seal and the guide tube but will continue to research.
thanks for your response, after around 7 hours solid reading I think I am all set except for the 80mm long guide tube that has been snapped off at the trigger block. I want to understand how it's fitted and if the remnants can be removed and then I could try for a replacement or have one made etc. I will take some photos and post them as a record of the work which may help some else down the line.
Ref my broken guide tube , I've tried to remove it using various drfts on the rear of the tube lip accessing it via the trigger slot. That was a waste of a couple hours .
So now i am thinking I have a couple of options that i can do to rectify my broken guide tube, I can either drill out the bit that remains and insert a new piece holding it in place with some sort of adhesive or have a free floating tube like you find on a BSA Meteor . I am not going to try and acquire a new rear block with the tube intact as the serial number would be an issue plus I would imagine they don't come up that often. Anyone have any other suggestions?
From memory, I think the guide tubes were threaded and then soft soldered into the trigger blocks, so you will need to apply heat to the stubby remains in order to remove. I have an old trigger block somewhere, complete with spring guide if it is any use to you. It is off a pre WW1 gun, but the spring guide should be similar. Alternatively I can open up one of my 1930's .22's and take external measurements and pictures of the spring guide, then you might be able to get one made up.
Just a thought but further to what Lakey said, I have an FWB Sport modified by John Bowkett which has the usual spring guide fixed to the trigger block replaced with a floating guide.
It looks like this:
and the original looks like this:
Eddie adds this:
The guide is a threaded thin wall tube and best removed by welding something to it and unscrewing in the normal direction if access to... someone who can be careful……. otherwise perhaps counterbore trigger block and make a new guide with a flange as per photos below:
Thanks guys , very helpful information. I been trawling the net for metal tube and I have been able to find some in stainless steel that will do the job nothing in mild steel that's suitable , what do you think on using Stainless? I think I am going to drill/ bore the old bit of tube out , re tap a thread in the hole and on the new tube . When I say I am going to do the work I mean I am going to try and find an engineer with the proper machines etc to do it. The inside diameter of the tube looks to be around 10mm so I will buy some 14mm tube which will give me 2mm walls which should be enough to cut a thread , what do you guys reckon ?
Ok after some measuring I discovered that the internal diameter of the springs will only allow a tube of 13 mm , any bigger may cause issues. Furthermore I need the tube to have an internal dimension of 10mm to allow the piston rod to move freely . So the tube ideally should have an outside diameter of 12mm with wall thickness of 1 mm which would leave the internal diameter of 10mm I require. Not sure I can cut a thread into it though as 1mm is not much material. Perhaps I can do a light cut for the thread on the tube and loctite it in place I'm not sure , this is a steep learning curve for me.
Did you have to do any machining when you used the free floating guide? I know you did but I don't have the skills or know anyone who does to do the boring required. I must admit I am a bit worried about messing the trigger block up so if the free floating guide could just pop in and work that would probably be the safest way for me to go.
I didn't do the work to the FWB...
The Webley Mk3 also has a floating spring guide, according to this pic. From Eddie's illustration it seems that a minimum of machining to the rear block is required, in order to locate the new guide centrally.
I had a quick look at the metals4U website.
What a great business!
I wish it had been around when I was young. When I used to do amateur gas welding c.35 years ago, I had to persuade a local fabrication yard to sell me the 16g and 18g mild steel sheets I needed.